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  • Writer's pictureMadhumita Ghosh

Amidst the Deodars



The church of the Saint John, the Baptist lies in the Himalayan cloaked mountainous state of Himachal Pradesh. Built is 1852, the St. John's Church in the wilderness, is built in neo-Gothic architecture. Set amidst lush deodar forests, this peaceful edifice is known for its Belgian stained-glass windows, which is an absolute treat to the eyes. The eccentric church was built in dense woods which is why it is famous as 'St John in the Wilderness'. One of the oldest built structure of Dharamshala, this is also the final resting place of Lord Ergin, one of the governor generals and also viceroy of India during the British Raj. The church is an eminent landmark in the hill town of McLeod Ganj. It has lavish interiors depicting the then times. The frescoes narrate the Biblical events inside the church. The main altar is exquisitely carved and adorned with the image of Christ on the cross. The sculptures of 2 angels can also be seen around it.

The Saint John’s Church is the perfect place to know past colonial heritage at a closer level. The church offers a glimpse of distant beautiful past of Dharamshala. Many historic events cross their paths in this quaint little church. The structure is so powerful that it survived the 1905 Kangra earthquake, which killed close to 19,800 people and destroyed most buildings in Kangra, Mcleodganj, and Dharamshala. Most buildings in Kangra were completely destroyed but the church remained almost untouched except its bell tower which was partially broken. In 1915, a new bell was reinstalled. The graveyard surrounding the church is where Lord Elgin, Governor-General and Viceroy of India was buried in 1861. Now the church sits comfortably on the top of a green mound hills regularly grazed by sheep’s and other mountain herbivores. All in all, the quaint old church is a must visit.



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